L’école
L’établissement est géré par Emmanuel Tessier, l’ancien second d’Olivier Roellinger.
Olivier Roellinger est un ancien chef triplement étoilé, aujourd’hui propriétaire du restaurant Le Coquillage à Cancale.
Ce passionné des épices a ouvert il y a quelques années les entrepôts « Épices-Roellinger » à Cancale, Saint-Malo et Paris, où sont vendus les mélanges d’épices, huiles et aromates créés et fabriqués par la Maison de Bricourt.
Côté pâtisserie, les cours sont dispensés par Jacques-Antoine Maudet, ancien pâtissier du restaurant Le Coquillage.
Le concept est simple : on doit se sentir comme à la maison. C’est pourquoi l’équipement de cette cuisine n’est pas un équipement professionnel, les techniques proposées sont donc facilement réutilisables.
Ce concept marche plutôt bien, le cadre est très convivial.
L’école a également pour mot d’ordre de nous initier aux épices et nous faire découvrir et partager celles produites par la maison Roellinger. De ce côté là, c’est également une belle expérience!
Le cours
Si vous avez en horreur les cours de cuisine bondés, ce cours est fait pour vous! Pas plus de 6 participants, ce qui est très appréciable si on veut pratiquer un peu et voir de près ce qui se passe dans les casseroles.
À l’arrivée, on est accueilli par le chef pâtissier qui nous présente en quelques mots l’historique et le concept de la cuisine corsaire.
Puis, il nous distribue un petit dossier avec toutes les recettes que nous allons réaliser.
L’intitulé du cours était « Les essentiels de la pâtisserie ». Au programme, la réalisation de 3 recettes.
1) Tartelette au citron meringuée
Ce n’est pas une grande découverte pour moi, puisque c’est ma tarte préférée, celle que je fais très régulièrement.
Mais c’est une façon de revoir ses bases : comment obtenir une belle pâte sucrée, comment bien la foncer afin d’obtenir un dressage parfait.
Petit plus de cette recette : la meringue suisse. À mi-chemin entre la meringue française et la meringue italienne, elle est à la fois moelleuse et croustillante.
Perso, je préfère toujours la meringue italienne, mais ça peut donner des idées à certains.
2) Tartelette soufflée au chocolat, pistache et cardamome
Cette tartelette est garnie d’une sorte de crème d’amande, aux saveurs de pistache et de cardamome et d’un soufflé au chocolat, le tout accompagné d’une quenelle de glace pistache/cardamome, c’était top!
La cardamome, c’est pour moi LA découverte de ce cours.
C’est une épice qui se présente sous la forme d’une capsule contenant des graines. Son parfum est très puissant, il a une saveur mentholée. Avec la pistache, le mariage est vraiment très réussi.
Dans cette recette, on revoit également plusieurs classiques : fonçage de la pâte (on s’entraine encore et encore pour un résultat parfait), mais aussi la technique du soufflé.
La recette du soufflé est différente de la mienne (ici). Le lait est remplacé par de la crème liquide et la quantité d’œufs est divisée par 2. Au final, on obtient un résultat très léger et aérien. Je vais peut être revoir ma recette!
3) Savarin aux fruits défendus
Fruits défendus, c’est pour les épices utilisées (« poudre défendue »), c’est en réalité un mélange d’anis vert, de gingembre et de cannelle.
Ces épices serviront pour le sirop d’imbibage du savarin.
Le fruit qui est caché dans le trou du savarin et qui est recouvert par une délicieuse crème fouettée et parfumée à la vanille de Tahiti est la fraise, mais on peut très bien l’imaginer avec des framboises, des mûres ou autres fruits selon la saison.
Résultat : un dessert frais et très léger où les épices révèlent tous leurs parfums subtils, un délice!
La dégustation
Après 4h de cuisine, il était temps de faire une pause afin de déguster nos réalisations.
On installe la table, on se sert un bon verre de vin, et c’est parti pour la séance de débriefing.
Pour ma part, même si je n’ai pas appris grand chose côté technique, j’ai beaucoup apprécié ce cours, ambiance sympa et détendue, et surtout découvertes culinaires…
On repartira chacun avec sa petite boite et des idées plein la tête.
À la sortie, on n’oubliera pas de s’arrêter au salon de thé juste en face, Grain de Vanille, pour déguster les fameuses galettes cancalaises de Roellinger, qualifiées de biscuits d’exception par le magazine Fou de pâtisserie…
Pour plus d’infos sur les cours de La cuisine corsaire, c’est ici : La cuisine corsaire
Super. Tu as dû te régaler ! Moi, ça me fait envie, un petit cours de cuisine….et des huîtres aussi!
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